A water heater pilot light is the little blue flame at the bottom of the heater that lights the burner when your water heater needs to heat water. The heater will not heat water if the pilot goes out and it will have to be relit.

In an older heater (prior to 2002) you are able to relight the pilot with a match or lighter. Water heaters have changed in recent years to comply with new laws to prevent fires and explosions. The reason for the new regulations is because residents that don’t have basements in their homes usually have their heater located in the garage. That creates a problem when a heater with an open flame is located near lawn equipment and cans of gasoline. The area at the bottom of the heater is now completely enclosed and the only way to relight the pilot is with a igniter that is located on the gas valve.

There are a few causes of a pilot light going out. The first cause may be a thermocouple failing. Very simply put the thermocouple sends the message to the burner that the pilot is lit. If the thermocouple fails the burner won’t light and the pilot will go out. In an old water heater (prior to 2002) you are able to replace the thermocouple and hopefully be back in business.

The next issue that you need to consider is the fresh air intake. If you have a traditionally vented heater (i.e. a heater that is gravity vented through a chimney in your home) it is possible that a down draft is occurring due to the fresh air intake being plugged. If the Fresh air intake vents at the base of the heater are plugged with debris the heater may pull its fresh air through the chimney vent. This may cause the pilot flame to be extinguished. To solve this issue you need to clean your air intake vents at the base of the heater and relight the pilot.

Because of these new restrictions water heater manufacturers had to come up with new ways of getting fresh air to the flame while not allowing the possibility of having a fire start or having an explosion. This created issues with pilot lights not staying lit. Most manufactures have some kind of venting that is located at the bottom of the heater. This venting can become plugged with debris and not allow combustion air to be taken in to keep a flame lit.

Adding to the problem is debris that may get sucked in to the heater itself. Water heaters used to have combustion air coming in from all sides. This design allowed for a more than adequate air supply to enter the heater keeping the flame and burner lit. With the new heaters the size of the air ports for fresh combustion air to enter the heater have restricted the air supply. The amount of air needed is the same however the size of the hole that the air has to enter has been choked down causing a vacuum effect. This causes debris to enter into the heater itself and plug screen that is located in the heater that was added as a safety shield to prevent any flames from escaping the heater. If this occurs it is possible, although difficult, to blow out the debris.

The Portable Oil Filled Radiator Heater is a great, solution for heating the living space in your home, office or workspace. This heater contains special permanently sealed diathermic oil that won’t leak from the unit and never needs to be refilled, offering stable and efficient heating. Features 3 heat settings – 600, 900 and 1500 watt output and automatic thermostat control. Also features a large wheel base for easier movement and portability, recessed carrying handle and convenient cord storage design. Built with safety in mind, the tip over safety switch will give you peace of mind. The portable oil filled radiator heater is constructed with a heavy gauge sheet metal cabinet and carries a one-year limited warranty.

• Permanently sealed special diathermic oil; never needs refilling and won’t leak
• 3 heat settings – 600, 900 and 1500 watts
• Automatic thermostat control
• Power indicator light
• Large wheel base, recessed carrying handle and convenient cord storage for easier movement, portability and storage

Start by removing the coolant. As I said this is what heats the coolant heater core. So, if the coolant is low, it can not a sufficient amount ofHeat transfer heat to the air in the passenger compartment. Because it's cold outside, can not the low coolant temperature of the engine much effect, so that you no warning to a coolant problem caused by the temperature gage on the instrument panel. Once the coolant is full, feel the heater hoses that go through the firewall. With the engine at normal operating temperature, which should both be hot on the heater hoses. If only one is hot, thisindicates that a blockage in the heater core or the air trapped in the heater core. With a Lisle coolant funnel is in cleaning the air from the cooling system helpful. If the coolant is actually brown, has been neglected, or "leak" was used at a particular time is, could be stopped, the heating core. The blockage can sometimes by the heater hoses and using a garden hose with a syringe to flush the heater will be unstoppedCore. If neither of the hoses are hot to the touch, it could also a failure of heating control valve, if you are working on the model used. Check the presence of a heater control valve by the heater hoses back on the engine. Sometimes a vacuum line could have a break where they cause no vacuum to operate the valve. Also it should be noted that if this (your first winter with this car and you are not familiar with repair of the carHistory), the previous owner could have avoided because the heater core of a leak. If a heater core leak, usually they get wet the passenger side floor. The labor costs for changing radiator usually expensive, so sometimes people loop the heater hoses and by-pass rather than repair a leaking heater core right.

Next check for proper ventilation. Once you are sure the heater core is hot waterflow, read the following information. Doors inside the heater case, are controlled either by electrical motors, cables or vacuum motors. Adjust the heat control to both extremes while listening for the movement of the mixture door. With a cable operated heater door, it is easiest to hear knocking on the door when it is closed. If the door is not in operation to find the door that the airflow through the heater core controls. If there is an electric motor that controls the door,Tap, it can sometimes make it work temporarily for testing purposes. A vacuum operated vacuum motor must work so that a handheld vacuum pump for the test is generally recommended. If the motor does not hold vacuum vacuum, a leak in the membrane replacement needs. Be needed in order to lower the diagnostic function of head control and diagnosis, repair manual specific information. But, hopefully, has explained the basics in this article helped to get you started onthe right track.